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Dermatological knowledge

How to use Niacinamide and AHA/BHA for smooth, clear, and even-toned skin

Dr. Anh Thu, MD — Specialist Level II DermatologistJun 10, 20232 min read
How to use Niacinamide and AHA/BHA for smooth, clear, and even-toned skin

General information

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3):

  • Works by providing skin cells with energy to ensure healthy physiological functioning.
  • Helps treat issues like pigmentation, wrinkles, acne, oily skin, large pores, redness, dryness, dullness, and weakened skin barrier.
  • It has almost no side effects and is generally well-tolerated.

Alpha & Beta-Hydroxy Acids (AHA and BHA):

  • Common chemical exfoliants include glycolic acid and lactic acid (AHA), and salicylic acid and its derivatives (BHA).
  • Both AHA and BHA exfoliate the surface of the skin, helping shed dead skin cells and renew the skin’s surface. They can improve dullness, rough texture, hydration, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging.
  • BHA has the additional ability to penetrate the pores and break down sebum.

This is why BHA is particularly useful for acne-prone skin, large pores, and excess oil production.

  • If you want to incorporate both Niacinamide and AHA/BHA into your skincare routine, why not use a product that contains both?

-> The issue lies in the concentration. Clinical studies show that for Niacinamide to be effective, you’ll need a product containing at least 4-5% Niacinamide. For example:

  • 4% Niacinamide has been shown to reduce pigmentation, wrinkles, and acne.
  • 5% can improve redness and dryness.
  • Some studies suggest that 2% can reduce pigmentation, decrease oiliness, and increase hydration. If those are the only concerns you’re looking to address, you might be satisfied with this lower concentration.

– In products combining AHA/BHA with Niacinamide, Niacinamide is often present at concentrations below 2% (or when you see Niacinamide listed in the middle of the ingredient list in products that don’t disclose exact concentrations, it likely means the Niacinamide content is minimal). This means you may not get all the potential benefits we discussed earlier.

=> At this point, you might decide whether to opt for a 2-in-1 product or separate products with a higher concentration of Niacinamide, combined with specialized AHA/BHA for better results.

What happens when you apply one layer directly on top of the other, or mix them together?

Contact information

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Dr. Anh Thu, MD — Specialist Level II Dermatologist
Medically reviewed by

Dr. Anh Thu, MD — Specialist Level II Dermatologist

Reviewed:

Education & Professional Credentials

Dr. Anh Thu completed her entire formal and advanced clinical training at the University of Medicine and Pharmacy at Ho Chi Minh City (UMP HCMC), the top-tier medical institution in Southern Vietnam:

  • Doctor of Medicine (MD) – University of Medicine and Pharmacy at Ho Chi Minh City.

  • Specialist Level I in Dermatology – University of Medicine and Pharmacy at Ho Chi Minh City.

  • Specialist Level II in Dermatology (Senior Consultant Level) – University of Medicine and Pharmacy at Ho Chi Minh City.

Continuous Medical Education (CME) & Certifications:
  • Certification: Laser, Radiofrequency (RF), and High-Intensity Focused Ultrasound (HIFU) in Aesthetic Dermatology (UMP HCMC).

  • Certification: Specialized Dermal Filler Injections in Aesthetic Medicine (UMP HCMC).

  • Certification: Advanced Clinical Practice of Botulinum Toxin Injections (UMP HCMC).

  • Certification: Medical Thread Lifting Techniques (UMP HCMC).

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