How to use Niacinamide and AHA or BHA for smooth, clear, and even-toned skin

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Niacinamide and AHA/BHA – Should they be combined and how to use them together for optimal results? Have you ever wondered about these issues? First, let's quickly go over the standout benefits of these ingredients (by the way, if anyone would like an article on each ingredient, feel free to leave a comment below and let us know).
Last updated: 05/09/2024

General information

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3):

  • Works by providing skin cells with energy to ensure healthy physiological functioning.
  • Helps treat issues like pigmentation, wrinkles, acne, oily skin, large pores, redness, dryness, dullness, and weakened skin barrier.
  • It has almost no side effects and is generally well-tolerated.

Alpha & Beta-Hydroxy Acids (AHA and BHA):

  • Common chemical exfoliants include glycolic acid and lactic acid (AHA), and salicylic acid and its derivatives (BHA).
  • Both AHA and BHA exfoliate the surface of the skin, helping shed dead skin cells and renew the skin’s surface. They can improve dullness, rough texture, hydration, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging.
  • BHA has the additional ability to penetrate the pores and break down sebum.

This is why BHA is particularly useful for acne-prone skin, large pores, and excess oil production.

  • If you want to incorporate both Niacinamide and AHA/BHA into your skincare routine, why not use a product that contains both?

-> The issue lies in the concentration. Clinical studies show that for Niacinamide to be effective, you’ll need a product containing at least 4-5% Niacinamide. For example:

  • 4% Niacinamide has been shown to reduce pigmentation, wrinkles, and acne.
  • 5% can improve redness and dryness.
  • Some studies suggest that 2% can reduce pigmentation, decrease oiliness, and increase hydration. If those are the only concerns you’re looking to address, you might be satisfied with this lower concentration.

– In products combining AHA/BHA with Niacinamide, Niacinamide is often present at concentrations below 2% (or when you see Niacinamide listed in the middle of the ingredient list in products that don’t disclose exact concentrations, it likely means the Niacinamide content is minimal). This means you may not get all the potential benefits we discussed earlier.

=> At this point, you might decide whether to opt for a 2-in-1 product or separate products with a higher concentration of Niacinamide, combined with specialized AHA/BHA for better results.

What happens when you apply one layer directly on top of the other, or mix them together?

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